Browse to HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Class\{4D36E96F-E325-11CE-BFC1-08002BE10318}

Then remove the value msvmmouf from the UpperFilters Regvalue.

I then disable or remove the Virtual Machine Additions service and reboot.

To remove the Virtual Machine Additions:

Browse to HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Services\ and delete the key named VPCMap. There are two other services 1-driver-vmsrv and 1-vmsrvc. I typically remove these servies too.

Adaptor Pattern

http://www.c2.com/cgi/wiki?AdapterPattern

http://home.earthlink.net/~huston2/dp/adapter.html 

Factory Pattern

http://www.c2.com/cgi/wiki?FactoryMethodPattern

http://home.earthlink.net/~huston2/dp/abstract_factory.html

Singleton Pattern

http://www.c2.com/cgi/wiki?SingletonPattern

http://home.earthlink.net/~huston2/dp/singleton.html

Strategy Pattern

http://www.c2.com/cgi/wiki?StrategyPattern

http://home.earthlink.net/~huston2/dp/strategy.html 

Facade Pattern 

http://www.c2.com/cgi/wiki?FacadePattern

http://home.earthlink.net/~huston2/dp/facade.html 

Iterator Pattern

http://www.c2.com/cgi/wiki?IteratorPattern

http://home.earthlink.net/~huston2/dp/iterator.html 

Template Method Pattern

http://www.c2.com/cgi/wiki?TemplateMethodPattern

http://home.earthlink.net/~huston2/dp/template_method.html 

Command Pattern

http://www.c2.com/cgi/wiki?CommandPattern

http://home.earthlink.net/~huston2/dp/command.html 

Decorator Pattern

http://www.c2.com/cgi/wiki?DecoratorPattern

http://home.earthlink.net/~huston2/dp/decorator.html 

State Pattern

http://home.earthlink.net/~huston2/dp/state.html 

Interpreter Pattern

http://home.earthlink.net/~huston2/dp/interpreter.html 

Tonight we fight. Tonight you die!

If I ever get some time to really get into it, I think I might like to have one of these.

If you do not have a belt sander and/or an orbital sander, you could do this by hand, or skip. If you skip, your final finish will not be as nice, but it will still be good. Tim just purchased a nice little vacuum hold down, so I put it to use in holding the plywood down to the work bench. It worked perfectly.

Here is the hold down:

Just apply an air source, and you have vacuum on both sides of the clamp. It is just cool.

So, with the piece of plywood held down, I started to sand using the belt sander. The technique used was to go with the grain to the end, and then pull the sander back. Basically, making two passes, and then moving over just slighltly less then the width of the sander.

When sanding with the belt sander was complete, the step was repeated, but this time with an orbital sander. This was repeated for each peice of plywood, which amounted to allot of work. But it does make a difference in the "smoothness" of the wood.

After sanding all of the plywood, we began to cut the Oak for the front frame for the cabinet, which I will detail in my next post.

This turned out to be a very painstaking process. As I understand it, this has more to do with the size of the machine and the number of the blades. The bigger the machine the more material you can take off with each pass. Since Tim’s has a smaller planer, we could not be too aggressive. So, after many passes, the wood was close to the desired 3/4" thickness.

The rough wood:

After a few passes:

After some more passes, we have some pretty nice wood:

That is all that was completed on day one. Next step is to sand it all!

We deciding to build the cabinet first. So, step one was to rough cut of the oak plywood that will be used for the sides and shelf’s down to more manageable sizes that could be cut in the shop. No room for cross cutting a 4′ X 8′ sheet where the saw is now. Not an issue for this project since there is scrap on the end of the board, so there is a little room to play.

Here is the layout for the desk pieces:

 

This was used more for a guide then the actual cut layout. Since there is ample space on the right end, each rough cut was for the longest piece. The first rough cut was made ~1/2" more then the 29" needed for the first shelf, and it was the full 48". This shifted the edges of the next two boards over to 29 1/2". Then the next rough cut was made at 29 1/2". Now we had three boards that were much more manageable. Here is a shot of Tim making the first rough cut with a circular saw:

Now with the rough cut pieces, we used the table saw to cut them to the actual size. This could also be done with a circular saw if you did not have access to a table saw, but special care would need to be taken to setup a straight edge to run the saw against to help in making a straight cut. Here, Tim is utting the desk side from the first rough cut piece. This is the cut that sets the height, so the table saw is set to  30":

Since the rough cut was at 29 1/2", the desk side needed to be trimmed to 28 1/2":

And here is the final sheet:

After everything was cut to size, we then cut a rabbet on both cabinet side panels. This rabbet is so the 1/4" oak plywood back panel of the cabinet will sit flush, and will hide the edge of the plywood. Unfortunately, I do not have a good shot of the rabbet, but think of it as a notch. It can almost be seen on the left side in the above picture. It was cut 1/4" deep by 3/8" wide. My next post will continue Day 1 and detail the planning of the rough oak down to ~3/4" thick.